Dr Peter Oakley
School of Arts & Humanities
Reader in Material Culture
Dr Peter Oakley leads, contributes to, or oversees externally funded research projects in the School of Arts & Humanities, as well as supervising PhD students and supporting the development and review of staff grant applications. Dr Oakley is a specialist in material culture, with a specific interest in making and manufacturing. His current research interests include the social identities of prestige materials and luxury goods, the development and impact of ethical and sustainable material sourcing programmes, contemporary uses of traditional craft techniques, the introduction and exploitation of innovative manufacturing processes and the management and presentation of industrial heritage sites.
Dr Oakley has a background in the creative industries as a member of product design and restoration project teams and as a lecturer and programme leader. He has also worked as a heritage and cultural tourism specialist and as an industrial analytical chemist. Dr Oakley joined the RCA as School Research Leader for the School of Material in 2012, moving to the School of Arts and Humanities as a Senior Research Tutor in 2017, and becoming a Reader in Material Culture in 2018.Show more
During 2005 and 2006, Dr Oakley undertook fieldwork in the Southwest United States, where he studied the making of ‘Indian Jewellery’ and its display and retail at heritage locations across the region.
From 2008 to 2012 Dr Oakley undertook full-time research on aspects of the UK’s fine jewellery industry. This included examining the circulation of gold, assaying and hallmarking practices, the introduction of new design and production methods and the emergence and impact of ethical gold sourcing initiatives. His work on luxury goods has since expanded to include the design, manufacturing, retailing and consumption of watches, ceramics, woven textiles and leather accessories and footwear.
Due to his previous experience as a ceramicist, Dr Oakley combines a practitioner’s perspective with an anthropological approach to his research on the social relevance of manual craft techniques. Whilst his current work focuses on craft in UK contexts, this is grounded in a knowledge of their comparability with many overseas craft traditions. His current PhD supervisions, covering textile traditions in both Thailand and Nigeria, reflect this international outlook.
Dr Oakley has retained a long-standing research interest in the adoption and use of innovative production technologies by craft practitioners and industrial manufacturers. In 2013 and 2015 he convened the Digital Crafting workshops at Making Futures III & IV, as well as giving presentations on developments in digital crafting at Making Futures events in China in 2014 and Korea in 2015. His role in the AHRC-funded research project: Extending the Potential of the Digitally Printed Ceramic Surface (2015–2017) was to examine workforce responses to digital laser printing technology, a task he reprised for the follow-on project: Improved Laser Printing Equipment for Ceramics (2017–2018). In 2017 he co-convened the Crafting in Industry workshop at Making Futures V.
Dr Oakley has also undertaken research on the management and curation of industrial heritage sites and the impact of these sites on current perceptions and practice. This has included work on the preservation and presentation of gold mines in Alaska, California and Sweden, tin mines in Cornwall and workshops and factories in London’s Hatton Garden and Birmingham’s jewellery quarter.
Dr Oakley is a Fellow of the Royal Anthropological Institute (RAI) and a member of the European Association of Social Anthropologists (EASA), where he is an active contributor to the EASA Anthropology of Mining network group. He is also a member of the Society for the History of Alchemy and Chemistry (SHAC) and the Association of Research Managers and Assistants (ARMA). Dr Oakley is also a member of the AHRC’s Peer Review College and the ResearchFish Steering Board, an Honorary Research Fellow at UCL and a member of the editorial board for the peer-reviewed academic journal Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption.
Dr Oakley is currently the RCA’s Participant Contact and Project Manager for the H2020- funded project: 4Cs: From Conflict to Conviviality through Creativity and Culture. He is also Project Advisor for ‘The Ethical Making Resource’, an online archive being developed by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths of Edinburgh.
External AffiliationsShow more
- Honorary Research Associate at UCL Department of Anthropology
- Advisory Board member for the Geneva-based Sustainable Luxury Forum (2013–2015)
- Specialist Panel member for the FLO Fairtrade Gold certification standard review (2012)
- Advisory Group member for the Crafts Council report: Innovation through Craft: Opportunities for Growth, commissioned from KPMG (2015–2016)
- Member of the ResearchFish Research Focus Group (user interface development) (2016–2017)
- Project Advisor for the British Council funded Report: Empowerment of Women and Girls through Craft, Digital Technology and Entrepreneurship in Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Pakistan (2017–2018)
- Member of the ResearchFish Steering Board (2017–ongoing)
- Project Advisor for ‘The Ethical Making Resource’, an online archive assembled by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths of Edinburgh (2017–ongoing)
- Member of the judging panel for the Royal Academy of Arts and Turkish Ceramics 2015 Ceramic Architectural Installation competition.
- Fellow of the Royal Anthropological Institution (RAI)
- Member of the European Association of Social Anthropologists (EASA)
- Member of the Society for the History of Alchemy & Chemistry (SHAC)
- Member of the Association of Research Managers & Assistants (ARMA)
Research Group Memberships
- Member of EASA’s Anthropology of Mining Special Interest Group
- Member of LabUK’s Fashioning Material Britain
- Associate member of the Winchester Luxury Research Group
- Peer Review Panel member for Making Futures III, IV & V (2013.2015 and 2017)
- Editorial Advisory Board member for Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption (since 2015)
- Book proposal reviewer for Edinburgh University Press (2015)
- Book proposal reviewer for Bloomsbury Press (2015 & 2016)
- Reviewer for the Journal of Material Culture (since 2016)
- AHRC Peer Review College member (since 2017)
- Reviewer for the Journal of Visual Art Practice (since 2017)
- Book proposal reviewer for Routledge Press (2017)
- Reviewer for Conflict, Security and Development (2018)
Academic Event Managment
- Convener of the Digital Crafting Workshop held at Making Futures III (2013)
- Convener of the Digital Crafting Workshop 2 held at Making Futures IV (2015)
- Co-Convener (with Rod Bamford, C&G HoP) of the Crafting in Industry Workshop held at Making Futures V (2017)
Convener of FairLuxury@RCA symposium (2018)
Publications, exhibitions and other outcomes
Academic Journal ArticlesShow more
Oakley, Peter (2018) ‘Crafting in Industry: ideals and realities’. Making Futures, vol.5.
Oakley, Peter (2018) ‘Creating a Brighter Future? Responses to the commercialisation of a new ceramic print technology’, Making Futures, vol.5.
Oakley, Peter (2018) ‘After Mining: contrived dereliction, dualistic time and the moment of rupture in the presentation of mining heritage’, Extractive Industries and Society (EXIS),vol.5 no.2. special edition: Mining Temporalities – Approaching the Extractive Industries through Time and Temporality.
Oakley, Peter (2017) ‘Is Gold Jewellery Money?’, Social Analysis, vol.61, no.4. Special edition: Money, Value and Equivalence.
Oakley, Peter (2016) ‘Digital Crafting: Defining the Field in 2015’, Making Futures, vol.4.
Oakley, Peter (2015) ‘Ticking Boxes: (re)constructing the wristwatch as a luxury object’, Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption, vol.1, no.2.
Oakley, Peter (2014) ‘Crafting with Digital Technologies: issues in practice’, Making Futures, vol.3.
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘Does Contemporary Craft Carry a Social Deficit? An analysis through comparison with related creative practices’, Making Futures, vol.1.
Oakley, Peter (2015) ‘Introducing Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold: An attempt to reconfigure the social identity of a substance’, in: Adam Drazin and Susanne Kuechler (eds), The Social Life of Materials, London: Bloomsbury.
Oakley, Peter (2015) ‘A Permanent State of Decay: Contrived dereliction at heritage mining sites’, in: Hilary Orange (ed.), Reanimating Industrial Spaces, Walnut Creek, CA: Left Coast Press.
Oakley, Peter (2014) 'Contrived Dereliction: Employing an aesthetic of decay at mining heritage sites', in: Mike Robinson et al (eds.) Cultural Heritage and Tourism Vol.2: Engagement and Experience. Taipei: Farterng Culture CO.
Oakley, Peter, and Küchler, Susanne (2013) ‘New Materials and their Impact on the Material World’, in: Penny Harvey, Eleanor Casella, Gillian Evans, Hannah Knox, Christine McLean, Elizabeth B. Silva, Nicholas Thoburn, Kath Woodward (eds), Objects and Materials: A Routledge Companion, London: Routledge.
Oakley, Peter (2013) ‘Containing Precious Metals: the material consequences of hallmarking in modern and medieval England’, in: Hans Peter Hahn and Hadas Weis (eds), Mobility, Meaning and Transformations of Things: Shifting contexts of material culture through time and space, Oxford: Oxbow Books.
Oakley, Peter (2008) ‘Praxeological Subjectification: the hidden power of practical activities’, in: Kate Hatton (ed.), Design Pedagogy Research, Huddersfield: Jeremy Mills.
Published Conference Papers
Oakley, Peter (2015) 'Digital Crafting: Re-evaluating Promises and Pitfalls' (English text with full translation into Korean). In: Making Futures Korea: Craft, meeting the new through changes in perception. Cheongju: Cheongju International Craft Biennale Committee.
Oakley, Peter (2014) ‘Contrived Dereliction: employing an aesthetic of decay at mining heritage sites’, in: Tourism and the Shifting Values of Cultural Heritage Conference Papers (Taipei, April 5-9, 2013), University of Birmingham, National Taipei University of Education and National Taiwan University
Oakley, Peter (2012) ‘Reflections on Ethical Gold’, in: The Goldsmiths’ Company Technical Journal 2012
Oakley, Peter (2011) ‘Ethical Highs and Lows in 2011’, in: Benchpeg Almanack 2011
The Ethical Gold Series for Benchpeg:
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘Introducing Ethical Gold’, in: Benchpeg 162, 9–15 May 2010
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘So What’s Wrong with Gold Mining Anyway?’, in: Benchpeg 167, 13–19 June 2010
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘Industrial Mining and Anti-Mining Campaigns’, in Benchpeg 173, 25–31 July 2010
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘Why is ASM Different?’, in: Benchpeg 178, 29 August–4 September 2010
Oakley, Peter (2010) ‘Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold', in: Benchpeg 187, 31 October–6 November 2010
Published Book Reviews
Oakley, Peter (2018) Reviewed work: ‘L’Invention du Luxe: histoire de l’industrie horlogère à Genève de 1815 à nos jours’ [by Pierre-Yves Donzé, 2017]. Review published in Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption, vol.5, no.1.
Conference, Workshop and Seminar Papers
‘Moving Ideals: the international migration of responsible mining and ethical sourcing principles in the early twenty-first century’, Staying, Moving, Settling - 15th EASA biennial conference, Stockholm, 14th-17th August 2018.
‘Mercury: ethical sourcing certification scheme perspectives’, Ethical Responsibility, Social Development and Environmental Management in West Africa’s Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining Sector, University of Surrey, 13th June 2018.
‘Mineral Materiality: The impact of decorating pigments on ceramic practitioners’ perceptions and praxis’, Art, Materiality and Representation, convened by the Royal Anthropological institute, British Museum, London, 1st-3rd June 2018.
‘Substantial Objects: interactions between gold artifacts and their alloys’, UCL Octagon Forum: Gold, convened by UCL History of Art Department, London, 18th February 2018.
‘Crafting in Industry: Approaches and Issues’ (workshop speaker panel presentation) and ‘Protecting Productive Crafting: identifying and supporting crafting in industry in the 21st Century’. Both for the Crafting in Industry workshop at Making Futures 5 conference, Plymouth 21st –22nd September 2017.
‘Preserving Past Mines in the Present: mining heritage management, contrived dereliction and non-linear time’, EASA Anthropology of Mining SIG workshop, Utrecht, The Netherlands, 20th –21st July 2017.
‘Towards A Brighter Future: The risks and rewards of new ceramic print technology’, ISSSM 2017, Sapporo, Japan, 17th January 2017.
‘Representing Geevor: linear progress vs the singular moment in the presentation of mining heritage’. Mining Temporalities panel at 14th EASA Biennial Conference, Milan, Italy, 22nd July 2016
‘The Politics of Industry: negotiating economics and innovation within and across communities of practice’. Delivered at Anthropology in London 2016, convened by University College London, 14th June 2016.
‘Intelligent Making at the RCA’. Seminar delivered to the Arts Faculty, California State University Long Beach (CSULB), Los Angeles, California, US, 12 April 2016.
'Playing Dead? Maintaining Neutrality in Collaborations with Ethical Campaigners', Anthropology Spring Seminar Series: Collaboration & the Contemporary Research Milieu, Goldsmiths, University of London, 3 February 2016.
'Digital Crafting: Re-evaluating Promises and Pitfalls', Making Futures Korea, conference, part of the Cheongju International Craft Biennale, 9-10 October, 2015.
'Digital Crafting: Defining the Field', Making Futures IV, conference, Plymouth College of Art, 24-25 September, 2015
'Moralising Gold Supply Chains'. Winchester Luxury Research Group Seminar Series, Southampton University, 29 April 2015
Origin Myths and Realities: unpacking the historic narratives of mining heritage sites, the first event in the Future Pasts/Present Futures seminar series at the Institute of Archaeology UCL, 12 January 2015
‘Crafting with Digital Technologies’ (keynote presentation), Making Futures: Beijing, part of Beijing Design Festival, Dashilar Hutong, Beijing, 28 September 2014
‘The Heart of Gold: manufacturing objects and material identities’, Anthropology in London, annual conference, London School of Economics and University College London, 24 June 2014
‘Gold Jewellery as Money: the covert social identity of a class of object’, Value and Equivalence,workshop, Goethe Universitaet Frankfurt am Main, 30 November 2013
‘Crafting with Digital Technologies: issues in practice’, Making Futures 3, conference, Plymouth College of Art, 27 September 2013
‘Immanence vs. Provenance: Fairtrade Gold and the social complexity of substance identities’ (highlight presentation), First European Conference on the Social Sciences, IAFOR, Brighton, 6 July 2013
'Contrived Dereliction: employing an aesthetic of decay at mining heritage sites', Tourism and the Shifting Values of Cultural Heritage conference, co-organised by University of Birmingham, National Taipei University of Education and National Taiwan University, and held in Taipei, 8 April 2013
‘The Rise and Fall of the Jewellery District in England’, TAG Annual Conference, University of Liverpool, 19 December 2012
‘Managing a Stream of Gold: the UK Assay Office in the 20th century’, SHAC Annual Meeting, held at the Science Museum, London, 8 December 2012
‘Agency and the XRF’, Anthropology in the World, conference, Royal Anthropological Institute, held at the British Museum, 9 June 2012
‘Containing Gold: institutional attempts to define and constrict the values of precious metal objects’, Itineraries of the Material, conference, Goethe Universitaet Frankfurt am Main, 7 October 2011
‘Tested by Fire: the social impact of technological changes in assaying’, SHAC Workshop, Department of History and Philosophy of Science, Cambridge University, 21 September 2011
‘Mapping Ethical Gold: Material Classifications and their Material Consequences’, RGS and IBG Annual Conference, held at the Royal Geographic Society, 2 September 2011
‘A Trace of Gold: the Ambiguous Nature of Abandoned Gold Mines’, Anthropology in London, annual conference, Brunel University and University College London, 20 July 2011
‘A Mine of Information: presenting the social histories of heritage mining sites’, European Archaeological Association Annual Conference, held at The Hague, 3 September 2010
‘Making Indian Jewellery in the Southwest: interactions across material cultures’, Sainsbury Research Unit Seminar, University of East Anglia, 22 April 2010
‘The Trouble with Gold: assaying, hallmarking and governmentality’, RCA/V&A History of Design Research Seminars (Asian and Modern strands), held at the V&A, 18 February 2010
‘Does Contemporary Craft Carry a Social Deficit? An analysis through comparison with related creative practices’, Making Futures III conference, Plymouth College of Art. 18 September 2009.
‘The Motivations and Practice of Educational Enactors’, Selling or Telling? ATLAS Annual Conference, University of Brighton, 4 July 2008.
‘Educational Enactment at Heritage Sites: issues in practice’, Bringing History to Life tourism employers conference, Cornwall College, 21 February 2008.
‘1st Class images? Tourist postcards as potential records of indigenous craft practice’, Tourism & the Visual conference, University of Brighton, 14 June 2007.
‘Praxeological Subjectification: the Hidden Power of Practical Activities’, Design & Pedagogy conference, Leeds College of Art & Design, 16 March 2007.
Panels & Public Speaking
Convener and plenary speaker at the Fair Luxury at RCA conference, Royal College of Art, London, 11th July 2018.
‘Ethical Silver: Old Problems and New Developments’, at It’s in Our Hands – One Year On, convened by The Incorporation of Goldsmiths, Edinburgh, 28th March 2018.
Panel Moderator at FLUX 2017 at the Birmingham Assay Office, Birmingham, 25th–26th April 2017.
‘Why so many Initiatives? Ethical Sourcing Initiatives in the Jewellery Industry’, at Ethical Making for the 21st Century, convened by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, held at the University of Dundee, 7th February 2017.
Plenary Panel Member for Harnessing Extractive Industries for Development in sub-Saharan Africa workshop, Surrey Business School, University of Surrey, 9th–10th June 2016.
Panel Member for ‘Ethical Issues and Initiatives’, at Flux: Fair Luxury at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, London, 19th April 2016.
Speaker at the 'Magic of Materials', Salon Supper for RA Architecture Patrons, organised by Royal Academy of Arts and held at Burlington Gardens, London, 24 June 2015
Panel Chair for Materials Reborn?, convened by the Arts Foundation as part of COLLECT 2015, held at the Saatchi Gallery, London, 10 May 2015
Panel Member and moderator for Sustainable Material for the Common Good, a breakout session at the 4th Sustainable Luxury Forum, held in Geneva, 4–6 February 2015
Panel Member for Cast, Conceive, Cut: Materials and Production, the second of three Architecture and Materials sessions organised by the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 22 October 2014
Panel Member for Crafting 2.0, part of Making Futures: Beijing (27–28 September 2014), an event at the 2014 Beijing Design Festival, 28 September 2014
Panel Chair for keynote speakers panel. The conference, Towards A Progressive Arts Education (6–8 November 2013), was organised by UAL and held at the British Library, London, 7 November 2013
Plenary Panel Member for Making Futures 3, (27–28 September 2013), a conference organised by Plymouth College of Art and held at the Mount Edgecombe Estate, Plymouth, 28 September 2013
Panel Chair for contributors’ discussion at Materials Innovation. The event, part of the 2013 London Design Festival, was organised by the Arts Foundation and held at the V&A, London, 17 September 2013
Panel Chair for Sustainable Luxury Innovation: dealing with a multi-dimensional terrain, a breakout session at the 3rd Sustainable Luxury Forum (18–19 June 2013) held in Geneva, 19 June 2013
Panel Member for Advanced Manufacturing session, part of ASSEMBLE 2012, a one-day conference organized by the Crafts Council and held at RIBA, London, 20 September 2012
Panel Chair for Ethics and Sustainability: 2011-2012 and Beyond, part of the Benchpeg seminar series held at International Jewellery London (IJL) in Earl’s Court 2, 2 September 2012
Awards and Grants
TECHNE Scholarship (2018–2021)
Role: Primary Supervisor & bid writing support
Funder: Arts and Humanities Research Council through TECHNE Doctoral Training Partnership
The TECHNE scholarship will support Eni Bankole-Race's PhD project - Resplendence: Aso-oke and the Importance of Strategic Sartoriality in the Culture of the Yoruba of of Western Nigeria
Fair Luxury at RCA (2018)
Role: Event Convener and Project Manager
Funder: RCA Research Development Fund (GCRF)
Fair Luxury at the RCA was an industry-academia crossover conference, focusing on ethical sourcing in the jewellery industry. Speakers included ethical mining certifiers, jewellery practitioners, gem traders, and academics researching artisanal and small-scale mining.
4Cs: From Conflict to Conviviality through Creativity and Culture (2017–2021)
Role: RCA Participant Contact & RCA Project Manager
Funder: European Commission through EACEA Creative Europe.
A transnational project exploring how training & education in art & culture can reflect on, & respond to, conflict through audience participation & co-production.
Improved Laser Printing Equipment for Ceramics (2017–2018)
Funder: Arts & Humanities Research Council
Prototyping design improvements for current ceramic laser printing machines & identifying technical specifications for the next generation of printing equipment.
Erasmus+ Staff Placement (2017)
Role: Host Sponsor and Placement Organiser.
Funder: EACEA Erasmus grants for staff or teaching mobility
Dr Antonella Camarda, lecturer at the University of Sassari and Director of the Nivola Museum, undertook a two week placement as a tutor at the RCA.
Pressed Aluminium Innovations Pilot Project (2016–2017)
Role: Principal Investigator
Funder: RCA Research Development Fund
Funding to scope the potential of crossovers between studio silversmithing & industrial press-forming processes.
Extending the Potential of the Digitally Printed Ceramic Surface (2015–2017)
Funder: Arts & Humanities Research Council
An exploration of the commercial potential of digital printing for decorating high-value ceramics, including identifying social & technical barriers to adoption.
ArcInTex European Training Network (2015–2019)
Role: RCA Participant Contact
Funder: European Commission through H2020-MSCA-ITN.
The ArcInTex consortium is supporting 15 PhD students researching intersections between textiles, interactive design & architecture.
Materialising Time (2014)
Role: sole researcher
Funder: RCA Research Development Fund
Field research in Geneva to support an analysis of the development of the wristwatch as a luxury good.
Contrived Dereliction (2013)
Role: Sole Researcher
Funder: RCA Research Development Fund
Utilising fieldwork at mining heritage sites in North America and Europe, the project developed the concept of ‘contrived dereliction’ as a presentation strategy.
Dr Oakley's research interests cover materials, manufacturing and luxury goods. Key themes he is currently researching within this overall topic are:
· The social identities of luxury goods.
· Ethical material sourcing initiatives.
· Technical innovation in luxury goods manufacturing.
· Contemporary uses of traditional crafts and making techniques.
· The management & presentation of industrial heritage sites.
Current and recent research
ArcInTex European Training Network
This research topic focuses on the creation and development of the concept of ‘ethical gold’ and its impact on the jewellery trade and associated supply chains through certification regimes managed by NGOs, industry bodies and other associations and organisations. The project has involved a decade of ethnographic fieldwork in the UK’s jewellery sector. This included attending ‘ethical gold’ promotional events, private industry meetings and jewellery trade shows and undertaking participant-observation amongst jewellery manufacturers and retailers, gold refiners and precious metal scrap merchants.
An examination of the role of craft making processes in the production of a range of luxury goods and the ways this contributes to the identity, allure and perceived value of these products. The project considers how and why craft techniques and craftmanship as ideals have become embedded in the activities and institutional structures of commercial luxury producers. It also reflects on how these ideals have been foregrounded in promotional campaigns as part of the heritage of specific luxury brands and the extent to which this has influenced manufacturing practices.
This project examined the development, current status and future of the wristwatch as a luxury good. It focused on two key moments in the history of the wristwatch and their long-term implications for its social identity. Firstly, the development of the first industrially produced wristwatches, intended for use as military equipment. Secondly, the mechanical wristwatch's revitalization as a luxury good in response to the threat of quartz timekeeping technology. Research undertaken for the project included fieldwork in luxury retail establishments in the UK, attendance at specialist trade shows in the UK and Germany and site visits to factories, retail sites and museums in Switzerland.
This research covered the practices and perceptions of makers utilising digital manufacturing technologies within creative practices typically thought of as craft disciplines. The key questions were how these practitioners develop the necessary skillsets and how they understood and enacted their own professional identities by managing their relationships with audiences and professional colleagues. It also considered to what extent digital crafting practitioners conceived of themselves as a distinct, stand-alone group.
Utilising the findings from fieldwork conducted at mining heritage sites in North America and Europe, this project developed the concept of ‘contrived dereliction’ as a heritage site presentation strategy and its implications for site stewards and managers. The case studies analysed during the project also demonstrated how specific heritage narratives directly influenced the ways individual physical objects and assemblages were perceived, valued and presented.
Immanence vs. provenance
Dr Peter Oakley
Containing precious metals: hallmarking, minting and the materiality of gold and silver in medieval and modern England.
Dr Peter Oakley
A permanent state of decay: contrived dereliction at heritage mining sites
Dr Peter Oakley
Introducing Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold
Dr Peter Oakley