A novel and creative design-science methodology for the deconstruction of wool for circular textiles
The large environmental impact of the fashion and textile industry on our planet alongside the need to transition to a circular economy system in this sector has been widely recognised. To achieve this transition, innovation in textile waste recovery is needed, being recycling crucial in implementing a circular textiles system. My research proposes to devise novel and creative interdisciplinary ‘design-science’ approaches for bio-based deconstruction of wool in a context of circular textile economy. Through collaborating with molecular biologists, I aim to investigate from a design perspective the enzymatic deconstruction of wool into new polymers and fibres. This process aims to contribute to the development of a novel bio-based closed-loop recycling process for end-of-life wool and to the valorisation of coarse wool not suitable for applications. The deconstruction of end-of-life and low-grade wool could be beneficial on the one hand to decrease the dependency on raw animal fibres and their environmental impact, whilst on the other hand to enhance protein-based textile waste valorisation in the context of circular economy.
More about Chiara
Chiara Tommencioni Pisapia is a designer researcher with a background in fashion knitwear and textiles. Chiara is interested in biobased processes for textiles circularity and interdisciplinary design-science approaches.
MA Material Futures, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, 2016 – 2019.
BA Fashion Design with Knitwear, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, 2012 – 2016.
BA Economics and Management of the Arts, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore Milano, 2006 – 2009.
Research Assistant, Textiles Circularity Centre / Burberry Materials Futures Research Groups, Royal College of Art, London, January – April 2020, March – April 2021, December – June 2022.
Materials Researcher, Consumer21 Ltd, London. July – August 2019.
Textiles Production / Textiles Design Intern, Phoebe English Ltd, London. June 2014 – May 2015, November – December 2019.
Design Consultant, BusinessKind Myanmar (BKM), Yangon. June – August 2015.
Knitwear Design Intern, Katie Jones, March – May 2015.
Knitwear Design Intern, From Somewhere by Orsola de Castro, London. October 2014 – January 2015.
Embroidery Design Intern, Alexander McQueen, London. June – October 2013.
Embroidery and Womenswear Design Intern, Marchesa Ltd, New York City, June – August 2012.
Milan Design Week, Ventura Futures, Material Futures, April 2019.
Yksi Expo, Milan Re-Used: A Selection Of Sustainable Projects, Eindhoven, May – June 2019.
London Design Festival, Open Cell, Biodesign Here and Now, September 2019.
Dutch Design Week, Veem, United Matters, October 2019 .
Lille Design Capital, A Labour of Love, August – November 2020.
Vienna Biennale for Change, Climate Cares, MAK, May – October 2021.
Ribul, M., Lanot, A., Tommencioni Pisapia, C., Purnell, P., McQueen-Mason, S., Baurley, S. (2021) ‘Mechanical, chemical, biological: Moving towards closed-loop bio-based recycling in a circular economy of sustainable textiles’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 326(October), p. 129325. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.129325