Wonjee Chung

The Chapman brothers’ monstrous modern body images have fascinated me and influenced my collection's silhouettes deconstructed and manipulated nature. For example, misplaced and multiplied neck holes and layering.

Antony Gormely's fractured body images have also greatly inspired this collection. This is due to his flexibility in recreating any shapes, so simple geometric images graphically support the whole collection. 

This collection contains a lot of calculations as an important design element. A strong relationship between the silhouette and graphic of the fabrics is crucial. When knitted fabric is calculated, it is normally broken down to simple geometric shapes, for example they are counted as squares. This concept is the same as the fractured body, therefore every loop is counted as a vital design feature and they are placed where needed.

It is also important to keep a wearable and productive value so I tried to exploit the general production process of knitwear and develop this further.  All fabrics are industrial machine knitted; Dubie and Shima are used for Jacquard fabric to create a luxurious finish. In relation to this the hidden seams are manually controlled graphics with crochet objects and silicone flex.

The material had to be neat and clean to assist all the concepts and contemporaneity. Viscose and cashmere are dominantly used and cashwool and silk are mixed for substantial quality of fabrics. 

Drapes from viscose empower graphical movement, which gives a lifelike illusion. Fine viscose enables the creator to play with layering, using a see-though effect which creates a contrast with other materials. Cashmere adds soft touch and volume, crochet objects and bonding silicone flex give an interesting texture and diverse dimension.