Arbiter. Fashion, Style and Masculinity in Italy, 1935-1952
The dissertation explores the articulation of
networks and discourses surrounding fashion, style and masculinity in Italy
between 1935 and 1952, through the analysis of the magazine Arbiter. Arbiter was first established to furnish the actors gravitating
around the definition of the menswear sector with a tool that could turn the
sector itself into a system of communication. The magazine soon went beyond its role of
propaganda, reshuffling its agenda to enter the wider debate surrounding the
definition of national and gender identity
School of Humanities
MA History of Design, 2017
My research interests lay in the liaisons and counter circuits between heritage, national identities, and fashion as a system of production and communication.
In my MA dissertation, I analysed discourses of fashion, style and gender identity in Italy between 1935 and 1952, considering them as fabricated languages, intertwined one into the other. The privileged lens through which I could do so was Arbiter, an editorial project that combined different souls: the trade journal, the fashion report and the lifestyle magazine.
Before enrolling to the History of Design programme, I earned a BA in fashion design from IUAV University of Venice. I then embarked in various projects: I contributed to the constitution of the digital archive of the Armani/Silos in Milan, and collaborated as researcher for the exhibition Bellissima: Italy and High Fashion, 1945-1968, supporting the curatorial team in the set up at the Villa Reale in Monza and at the NSU Art Museum Fort Lauderdale.