A collection responding to Hella Jongerius’ call for ‘a new holistic approach to design’.
Fashion and textiles are the most polluting and wasteful of industries. I believe that as designers we have a responsibility to be conscious of the impact of the material choices we make; to be resourceful, working towards a more sustainable future model for the production of the clothes we wear and materials we live with.
What started with an exploration of natural dyes as an alternative to the petrochemical and polluting synthetic norm, my design approach broadened to encompass sourcing and developing materials and finding new solutions.
By looking backwards to move forward I have developed a number of methodologies, recipes and fostered production relationships that have their origins in pre-industrial textiles, craft and the principles of slow-textiles, but are scalable and viable alternatives for contemporary and future production. For example, material efficiencies such as placement and engineered prints, careful pattern cutting minimising waste material and reusing any waste for linings and trim are all economical solutions and employed for the making of the garments.
Using waste, by creating mono-materials from strong natural fibres and non-toxic colour, substrates and finishings to make materials that are naturally hard-wearing. They will have a long life, but also their end of life would be uncomplicated; simple to re-use, recycle or compost without any polluting elements; working within the principles of the circular economy.
The result is a toolkit for making textiles more responsibly. Textiles that can be used for garments, footwear, accessories and interior applications. A small number of key pieces are on show here.
Organic Irish grown linen yarn sourced from closing down mills, woven by a Northern Irish micro-mill
Mill waste linen yarn
English organic (Soil Association certified) peace silk
English wool, spun in Cornwall
Organic Welsh wool, spun and woven in a Welsh micro-mill
Piñatex, pineapple fibre
Production waste leather from Ally Capellino, re-coloured naturally for a new use
Colour and process
All the colours are derived from nature and have been made using non-toxic natural alternatives for substrates, including seaweed. Most colours are made using substantive plant dyes, and plant dyes with the assistance of a mineral or plant mordant. Colours have been chosen for good light and wash fastness. By using substantive dyes and by exhausting dye vats, water usage is reduced. I have developed my own methods and recipes for dyeing, print, discharge and devore.
Dyed with the natural pigmentation of plants, either in dried or fresh form including food waste.
Responsibly foraged wild or cultivated plants growing in abundance used to dye, capturing the natural palette of the location. Locations include Villa Lena, Tuscany (residency June-July 2016) Fforest, Wales (residency, various 2016/17) and Peckham, London.
A non-toxic bleach-out recipe derived wholly from plants, used to whiten areas that have been plant dyed.
A mineral based alternative to the standard burn-out recipe, made using all natural non-toxic materials.
School of Design
MA Textiles, 2017
+44 (0)7595 390930
Hazel Stark is a designer specialising in the use of natural materials, working within the principles of the circular economy to produce colour and textiles for a more responsible future of material production.
- BA Fine Art, Falmouth College of Art. 2005
- Designer/Maker, Hazel Stark, London, 2012–2015; Marketing manager, Ally Capellino, London, 2011–2014; Events and professional development Assistant, Craft Central, London, 2009-2011; Studio Manager, Kim Robertson Textiles, London, 2009; Studio Manager, Mimi Berry accessories, London, 2008-2009; Programme and Studios Manager, Farnham Maltings, Farnham, 2007-2008; Events Assistant, Hidden Art Cornwall, Cornwall, 2006-2007
- Visionary Optical Eyewear with RCA FAM, 100% Optical, London, 2016; Artists in Residence,Villa Lena Art Foundation Palaia, Italy, 2016; Makers Dozen, Goodhood, London, 2015; Concerning Plants, Stroud International Textile Festival, Stroud, 2015; Unit D, London Design Festival, London, 2014; YCN Gallery, London, 2013; New Abstract, Print House Gallery, London, 2013; Book Stand, The Standard, Los Angeles, 2013; Design Marketo, Barbican, London, 2012; East London Printmakers, London Design Festival, London 2012; Dream Shop with Intelligent Clashing/Rolu, Walker Art Centre, Minneapolis, 2012; Nothing But Navy, London and stroud, various 2012-15
- Dyers Company Award, Colour Award, 1st Prize, 2016; Haberdashers Company Award, 2nd Prize, 2016; Visionary Optical Eyewear, 100% Optical / Cubitts, Finalist, 2016
- Neue Folk, Desktop Magazine, issue 299, 2013, pg 12-16; Abstract Design, Wrap Magazine, issue 10, 2014