History of Design Research Seminar Series: Past Talks

The V&A/RCA History of Design Research Seminar Series provides a forum for engaging with new thinking in the history of design and material culture, including cutting-edge research in related fields such as anthropology, economic history, the history of art and architecture, medical humanities and the history of science and technology

Details of talks prior to 2016 can be found below. For details of the current talk series please click here.

Research Seminars 2015/16 

Spring Term

4 February 2016: Paolo Volonte (Politecnico di Milano) on 'The Agency of Objects: The case of glass showcases.'

11 February 2016: Anna Wu (PhD Candidate, Royal College of Art) on 'A New World: Chinese export wallpaper in America, 1870–1970.'

18 February 2016: Professor Craig Clunas (University of Oxford) on 'Connected Material Histories.'

25 February 2016 - Professor Leslie Atzmon (East Michigan University) on 'Encountering Things: Design and theories of things.' 

Autumn Term

15 October 2015: Professor Margot Finn (UCL) on Whose English Heritage? The East India Company at home and new public histories.’

22 October 2015: Professor Trevor Marchand (SOAS) on ‘Craft: A polythetic category.’

5 November 2015: Dr Agnes Rocamora (London College of Fashion, UAL) on ‘The Labour of Fashion Blogging.’

12 November 2015: Dr Tomasz Gromelski (Wolfson College, Oxford) on ‘“Crooked cartwheles” and “burste handgonnes”: Objects of everyday use and accidents in sixteenth-century England.’

26 November 2015: Professor Liliane Hilaire-Perez (Université Paris Diderot) on ‘Trade Records and Technology in Eighteenth Century England: Evidence from the toy trades'

Research Seminars 2014/15 

16 October 2014: Lina Hakin (V&A) on Scientific Playthings: Method and case study
Lina will argue in this seminar that considering scientific and technological instruments as playthings opens them up to a kind of research that bridges academic and museological concerns. She will first present the ideas behind this methodology for studying things and the thinking that they allow.  Lina will then illustrate its application in the case of the radiometer, the nineteenth-century scientific artefact that inspired this approach. A review of the seminar can be found here

23 October 2014: Margaret Willies on The Cottage Garden: Fact and fiction
For centuries the cottager cultivated his or her garden to provide food for the table and herbs for the medicine chest. In the nineteenth century, a revolution took place, as the cottage garden became first a romantic concept, and then a fashionable horticultural style. Margaret Willes, author of Gardens of the British Working Class, looks at the history of the cottage garden and the implications of this revolution, both for the grand garden owner, and for working-class gardeners.
A review of the seminar can be found here.

30 October 2014: Gillian Naylor Memorial Lecture
A special lecture on the life and career of Professor Gillian Naylor, former RCA History of Design tutor. Speakers are Jane Pavitt, Penny Sparke, Jeremy Aynsley, Clive Edwards, Lisa Godson and Marta Ajmar. A review of the lecture can be found here.

6 November 2014: Ulinka Rublack (Cambridge) on The Politics of Dress in Renaissance Germany
This paper investigates the role of dress, fashion colours and comportment as symbolic communication at a key political and religious event, the Augsburg Imperial Diet of 1530. It is linked to a reconstruction of an actual garment worn at this event and thus presents a new approach to historical research: a short BBC clip of the reconstruction and dressing of the model will be shown. The talk will also contextualise several medals in the V&A which were struck for this occasion. A review of the seminar can be found here.

13 November 2014: Adrian Green (Durham) on Manners of Building: Architectural style in England, 1550–1750
This paper explores the development of architecture in England between the mid sixteenth and mid eighteenth centuries. It argues that we should see the architecture of Elizabethan and Jacobean England as in many ways equivalent to the architecture of the Georgian age. Focusing on the form and style of domestic dwellings and institutional buildings, the paper explores the processes by which architectural style in England evolved and the reasons for those changes in style.
A review of the seminar can be found here.

20 November 2014: Fabio Gygi (SOAS) on Horror Vacui: Hoarding and accumulation as interior design
Over the last ten years, hoarding (the acquisition and failure to discard objects of little or no value) has been increasingly pathologised as a form of obsessive compulsive disorder. Comparing the different ways in which cluttered interiors have been conceived of, this talk aims to elucidate the changing meanings of domestic space in Japan and Europe. A review of the seminar can be found here.

27 November 2014: Susan Conway (SOAS) on Power Dressing. Textiles of the 19th century: Lan Na (north Thailand), Burma and Siam
Certain forms of dress, textiles and regalia worn at the courts of China, Burma (Myanmar) and Thailand acted as visual statements of power and influence. They conveyed the political, ethnic, economic and social status of the wearer. This lecture will examine this concept in relation to China, Burma and Thailand and the minor courts that owed allegiance to one or other of these Super Powers. A review of the seminar can be found here.

22 January 2015: David Matless (Nottingham) on the Nature of Landscape: Cultural geography on the Norfolk Broads
This talk will draw on material from a recent monograph examining the regional cultural landscape of the Norfolk Broads. It will consider recent retheorisations of landscape, culture and region, emphasising questions of voice and design. Topics addressed will include narratives of landscape’s past and future, questions of human conduct, animal and plant landscapes, and the status of regional landscape icons, including those shaping discourses of conservation and commercial cultures of leisure.

29 January 2015: Charlotte Nicklas (Brighton) on the Convenient Mode of Railways: Female travel, dress and propriety in the mid-ninetheenth century
In mid-nineteenth century women’s magazines aimed at middle-class readers, travel figured as an exciting opportunity and evidence of technological progress, as well as a source of anxiety about the mixing of social classes and the acceleration of modern life. Clothing was a subject of special concern, as women needed to appear respectable, even fashionable, despite dust, dirt, and fatigue. Considering textual representations in magazines, along with surviving garments and images, this paper will explore the role dress played in female travel during this period in Britain and the United States.

5 February 2015: Grace Lees-Maffei (Hertfordshire) A Special Relationship: The transatlantic domestic dialogue
Domestic advice literature is a mediating genre which contains a wealth of information about real ideals of the consumption of design in the home. Just as manners are markers of national identity (in that the people of different countries display different behaviours) so advice literature has been a tool in the formation of national identity. Grace will consider the semantic value of the gaps and silences in domestic advice books, the way in which informal manners have been presented as an American national trait, and how to understand the importance of domestic advice literature in mediating national identities, we must also consider its transnational significance.

12 February 2015: Marta Ajmar (V&A) on Material Mimesis: Reconnecting the Arts in the Renaissance
This talk will foreground a range of cross-cultural artefacts from Italy, the Middle-East, China and Japan made between c. 1400 and c. 1650 – from pottery to lacquer – and interrogate their multi-layered materiality. It will explore how, through complex processes of material mimesis and structural speculation and simulation, these artefacts participate to a cross-cultural technological value system predicated on stratification and depth, which is both material and temporal, leading us to question conventional geographical and historical frameworks for understanding the Renaissance.

19 February 2015: Maurizio Marinelli (Sussex) on Saving the ‘Vital living past’ of Hong Kong: Stories of urban resistance in the Central District
This paper investigates what constitutes heritage in Hong Kong, focusing specifically on what Maurizio calls the ‘living heritage’ of Graham Street market. Historically, street hawkers and street markets originated, all over the world, as the real first form of retailing: they represent the fundamental link between the rural production and the urban consumption. Today we still use the term ‘street markets’ to refer to outdoor spaces that are made up of a set of implicit and explicit traditions and cultural practices, but they are also living spaces of sociality and connection. This paper will concentrate on the stories of survival, resistance and metamorphosis of the ‘vital living past’ of Graham Street Market.  Maurizio will analyze the role of concerned civil society organisations in the battle against domicide: the destruction of home which also implies the destruction of memory (Porteous, Smith, 2001). A review of the seminar can be found here.

26 February 2015: Bill Sherman (V&A) on The Reader's Eye: Between annotation and illustration
Recent scholarship in the lively field of marginalia (including my own Used Books) has treated readers' marks almost exclusively as a verbal phenomenon – as words, that is, next to other words. But in doing so we have lost sight of sight itself, and I have now begun to recover the ways in which readers responded with images as well as words. Between medieval illumination and modern illustration, there are many traces of reading as a visual mode, signs that we have been slow to see and study and for which we are poorly served by both methodology and terminology. In this seminar I will survey the range of images produced by readers between 1450 and 1750, and will suggest that reading was closely bound up with seeing--and indeed with drawing – across the Medieval/Renaissance divide. A review of the seminar can be found here.

Early Modern Material Cultures Seminar Series Summer 2015 – IHR/V&A

15 April 2015: Dr Jerzy Gawronski (University of Amsterdam) on The VOC-ship Amsterdam lost in 1749
29 April 2015: Dr Lesley Miller (V&A) on Selling Silks in Early Modern Europe
6 May 2015: Dr Carmen Frachia (Birkbeck) on Black Slaves in Early Modern Spain: From Commodities to Freedom
13 May 2015: Dr Giorgio Riello (Warwick) With Great Pomp and Magnificence’: Royal Gifts and the Embassies between Siam and France in the 1680s
1 June 2015: Dr William Fisher (New York) Doctor Dildo’s Dauncing Schoole: Sexual Instruments and Women’s Erotic Agency in England, c. 1600–1725
10 June 2015: Dr Sophie Read (Cambridge) on The Immaterial Object: Incense in Early Modern Poetry

Other past research seminar speakers include: 

Ben Highmore (Sussex), Nigel Wood (Oxford), Patrick Wallis (LSE), Caroline Evans (CSM), Stephen Boyd-Davis (RCA), Djurdja Bartlett (London College of Fashion), Tim Boon (Science Museum), Andrew Morrall (Bard), Teal Triggs (RCA), Louise Purbrick (Brighton), Catherine Rossi (Kingston), Philip Sykas (Manchester Met), Robin Schuldenfrei (Humboldt-Universität), Penny Sparke (Kingston), Erika Rappaport (California).