Director: Professor David Watkins

The ability to find answers to questions about the behaviour of materials and technologies in the production of artefacts is a key area of applied arts research at the RCA, exemplified by the major AHRC-funded Centre for Jewellery Research (CJR). The Centre is the largest focal point in the UK for research into how digital technologies are having an impact on jewellery's existing contexts and forms.

In collaboration with the University of Bath, a five-strong team of researchers, headed by Research Professor David Watkins, is exploring metal-enhanced textile structures and drawing on the methodologies of mathematical folding patterns, computer simulation and animation, biomimetics and batch production. The research responds to the demand for continuous innovation, looking for new materials and new construction methods, including folding, which is the particular area of study of PhD student Tine de Ruysser. Folding structures are becoming more popular in all areas of design, because of their ability to fold down to a small size for storage while unfolding to a larger size for use, or because the folding adds flexibility or texture. It is anticipated that the structures developed by this research will have both useful and aesthetic applications not only within the applied arts but in high-tech fields such as robotics.  Putting the user at the heart of product development has led to positive and engaging new perceptions of what constitutes 'jewellery', and to new transferable methodologies.